Vorstellung/Frage MC1 Mengenteiler

[Daniel Turbo10V]

Hello SamFM,

what spark plugs do you use? 1 Finger or 3 Finger? Brandname and Typnumber please?

I use a silicone membrane for the wastegate with a original spring in original position. I hope that your wategate didnt opened too soon the pressure bypass so that the turbo begin to running poor without power in your inletsystem.

Please check the following points:
1. Are your inlethoses all absolutely tight and well done mounted on the Pipes special in the line from the flow divider till the throttle inlet.
2. Test your duty cycle at first bring it to 55-60% and make a testdrive and take a look at the afr.
3. Now bring the duty cycle to 35-40% and make a testdrive and take a look at the afr( all testdrive with fuel 100 or more oktan and carefully)
My idea is that your engine is running poor at middle RPM because your vacuum didnt is enough to open the fuel rail (Mengenteiler)enough
Tell me please the results.

For the cylinderhead cooling.

Cylinderhead unopened with the 2 screws in the back

The bigger screw opened to get in the screwpipe (measure M14x1,25 please use a short srewpipe,my is only a example i didnt find the right so far)

The pipe to the return from the water heat exanger

Thr outlet at the cylinderhead with the rubberpipe

All Pipes are build by myself with copper- pipe and all is hard- welded and black painted. The whole pipe from the thermostat to the water heat exanger ist build from copper, 2. wateroutlet in the back of the cylinderhead and the connection to the elektric waterpump, its build from one part.




Greeting Daniel

[Joe 10v]

Servus Daniel
Woher hast du diesen Wasseranschluß hinten am Zylinderkopf, Link danke
M16x1,5 oder M14x1,5, mfg

[Daniel Turbo10V]

Hallo Joe 10v,
Das Gewinde ist ein M14x 1,25. Ich hatte es seinerzeit mal von einem Metallwarenladen hier in der Stadt bestellen lassen, allerdings aus Messing. Hier habe ich ein paar Links für welche aus Alu mit verschiedenen Innendurchmessern.Habe da auch mit der Fließgeschwindigkeit experimentiert. Je nach Leistungsstufe und Nutzung(Sommer, Übergangszeit oder auch Winter) habe ich hier verschiedenen Ergebnisse erzielt. Ich messe übrigens direkt daneben die Wassertemperatur hinten am Kopf mit einer Meßstelle (digital), bis zu 400 Messimpulse pro Sekunde.Da das serienmäßige"Temperaturmeßeisen" leider seeeeeeeeeehr träge ist. Hier erkenne ich sofort durch programmierte Überwachungen ein Problem in der Verbrennung oder der thermischen Abfuhr.

Das kleinere Gewinde ist ein M10x1 Gewinde, also optimal für einen Temperaturfühler zumal beide in der gleichen Kammer münden im Kopf.

Achtung: Bitte bei den Durchmessern des Anschlusses bedenken, viel hilft hier zwar auch viel, aber gebt bitte dem Kühlwasser auch die Chance Wärme auf- und mitzunehmen- darum mit den Durchmessern experimentieren.Zu schneller Durchfluss ist hier kontraproduktiv, zu geringer bewirkt im Lastbereich einen evtl. thermischen Rückstau.

https://www.ebay.de/itm/201596836963?ha ... R66WgZa_YQ

https://www.ebay.de/itm/191888091487?ha ... R4j4-JW_YQ

https://www.ebay.de/itm/201596838212?ha ... R66WgZa_YQ

Gruß Daniel

[Joe 10v]

Servus
Klar ist, kein größeres Gewinde rein Bohren.......
Danke Daniel

[SamFM]

Hello SamFM,

what spark plugs do you use? 1 Finger or 3 Finger? Brandname and Typnumber please?


Greeting Daniel

Dear Daniel, soory for taking sooo long to reply: a war broke out and I had to leave my homecountry. So, my car is left there, at the moment. And I miss it so much. =(

My wastegate is good, as I read a 1.9-2.0 bar on my dashboard all the time during the acceleration. I also installed the silicone 034 motorsport membrane and harder wastegate spring that came with the chip.

I use EYQUEM A13 C62LS3X spark plugs with 3 electrode. They are fairly affordable and had good reviews from local 10VT owners.
Before leaving, I managed to re-tune the fuel distributor, but I tuned it to 200 cc / min, so I must be about 20 cc less than needed for my 1 bar chip.

Regarding the leaning-out, the problem occurs not in the middle rev range, but on high revs: more revs = leaner fuel. I think, that those 200 ml / minute is just too little. Also, may be I have some detonation problem - either bad work of new "round" style detonation sensors, or just a real detonation, as I got my cylinder head machined + installed 20V head gasket. Maybe, compression became too big. But, I've tried using 100-octane fuel and nothing changed: my car doesnt rev above 5000 and the higher the revs, the leaner the fuel mix.

I already tested the N7 duty cycle change and there's no significant effect. It's like 0.5 AFR but it still leans out towards 5000 rpm.
I checked the air leaks and tightness of the hoses - they are Ok.

I suspect several things here:

1) Maybe my air-measuring plate is not going up fully (need to check)
2) Or even I got the wrong part for the air-flow meter cone. Maybe someone has installed it from another car, so, for example, it makes the plate top-up too early or not going 100% upwards. Need to check that as well.
3) Too much back pressure in the exhaust. But I got the stock pipes and no catalytic converter.
4) Worn out piston rings, so I got some bypass gasses in the cylinders on high revs. But, I don't see a high-pressure oil gasses on idle, and even when I took off the tube that returns the oil gases to the intake, there was no change in engine behavior
5) ... ? Hard to tell, maybe some faulty sensor. I've got no error codes stored, but still, maybe they are giving some wrong info to ECU

Thank you so much for the detailed description of the water cooling line modification. Looks like I even don't have to drill anything, right?

Best of luck to you and thanks for the help. I think, if I manage to get back to my beloved Turbo Avant, I will continue this thread with the results.

P.S. Last picture I did of my Avant

[Daniel Turbo10V]

Hello SAMFM,

Looks like I even don't have to drill anything, right?

You dont have do drill anything, thats right.
Please use spark plugs with 1 electrode like BOSCH W6DP an press the Finger manually from 0,7mm to 0,5mm carefully. At higher rpm it could be that the ignition Voltage is not high enough to burn the hole cylinderfilling. Also use a 11mm distributor-finger from the 200 20V. It fitts Plug & Play. If you couldn`t get one take a 14mm or 17mm finger and cut it carefull on both sides same to 11mm.

I think your 20V cylinder gasket is no problem. You have a problem with the ignition voltage(spark plugs or cable) or/and the 200ml of fuel, this seems for me a little to less. When you get "full throttle" you should have Lambda 0,8- 0,9. Also the full trottle switch have to be o.k to give the information to the ECU.

You have no catalysator, its the best way to get full power so that the Problem doesn`t come from there.

I could imagine that if you didn`t get enough fuel to the flow divider because the fuel pump isn`t strong enough the pressue in the fuel-system brakes down and goes up(pumpingwaves), i use a BOSCH 044 Motorsportfuelpump with a seperat Relais(70 Ampere) an 4 qmm Coppercable(download/file.php?id=56260&t=1)

By the way: I have the Problem that i get at high rpm the Lambda- Value went sometimes at high speed (210-230 km/h) to 1,15 till 1,28 Lambda for 0,5-2 sek
and the car seems to stopped a little but no warning from the knock- sensor or the enginecontrollamp came, only my installed "zeitronixunit" screams me on. Ich searched round about for a 3/4 year. Now i found the problem-
it was the intercooler!!! At full throttle the turbo charger gave pressure to the system but at high speed the engine need more air for the filling of all cylinders and in the intercooler there was the limit reached(i use the 3B intercooler, absolutely clean and tight).
Because the air could not passed away fast enough trough the intercooler an it came to "backdraft" into the turbocharger so that the air flow-plate(Stauscheibe) falling down into the cone of the fueldistributor an so i get not enough fuel for a little time into the cylinders. But when the airjam is away the turbo became again more rpm so that the flowplate gets higher the fuelmix of air and fuel was good. If i didn`t have had the "Zeitronixunit" in use, i think i blown up the engine or searching for the fail till the end of time.
To fix the problem i ordered a Handmade Aluminiumintercooler with higher flow inside. Now the engine runns "feeled"in all rpms better.
Please use for all tests 100 Oktane or more if you can get.

you write:""and even when I took off the tube that returns the oil gases to the intake, there was no change in engine behavior""
Here i had done in the past many series of measurements in the engine parts of 2- stroke cars and motorcycles. I use a oil catch tank with rotor to press the oilfog on the housing of the catchtank. It works very well. The octane number went with mix of oil fastly 2 till 10 octane down(dependent from oil type,mineraly or syntetic and how much came in). If you can get a catch tank, please install one to hold the octane- count high.
(Sorry for my english)
And please care your nice car- it looks really good!

Greetings Daniel