Teilenummer Verteilerfinger/Kappe 3B gesucht

[Markus 220V]

Ist mit dem AP22 nachgemessen. Da kannst die Kurven schön übereinander legen. Also ein deutlich besseres hochdrehen des Motors ist auf alle Fälle nicht nachzuweisen.

Und komischerweise bekommt man im Zubehör unter der Boschnummer auch den breiten Finger. Da müssen wohl noch weitaus mehr Programme als nur der E T K A fehler haben.

Ich poste hier nur Erfahrungsberichte. Glaub es oder nicht. Is mir egal. Bau dir den Finger ein, der für dich am Besten ist und freu Dich über dein subjektives schnelleres hochdrehen des Motors.

[dUSTy]

lese einfach und verinnerliche.

Are you using the correct Distributor Rotor for the 3B 20V Turbo Engine in the 1991 200TQ ?

The 3B designated 20V Turbo engine in the 1991 200TQ used a unique Distributor Rotor with a narrow tip that can be difficult to find in the US. This narrow tip rotor is required to provide the precise ignition timing at the higher RPM's and to prevent any ignition cross firing inside the distributor cap. Some people have reported engine damage (bent rod) that may have been caused when the incorrect cylinder was fired under very high boost.

The Bosch parts catalog shows the INCORRECT distributor rotor
(Bosch 04170 or the 1 234 332 350 R1) for this 20V Turbo application.

This Bosch 04170 (1 234 332 350 R1) rotor has a wider electrode tip measuring 0.710 inches (~17-18mm).

The Audi part number shown for this INCORRECT rotor is 052 905 225C

The correct Bosch Distributor Rotor with the narrow tip for the 3B engine, has the last 3 digits as -414.

The correct narrow electrode tip rotor measures only 0.432 inches, (~11.0mm).

The Bosch part number may also have the designation "R1" at the end, which indicates the rotor has a 1k ohm resistive element from the center to the tip.

The original 3B distributor rotor with narrow tip. The other important thing to note about this rotor, is that it is glued onto the distributor shaft, and it needs to be broken or crushed when removing it from the shaft using a pair of channel lock pliers. You can also use a dremel cutting wheel to cut off the old rotor.

Be careful not to damage the shaft when crushing this rotor and removing the left over pieces. You need to thoroughly clean the distributor shaft with some sand paper and some non residue cleaning solvent, (loctite primer solution is also recommended) and then use Loctite 640 (or equivalent) to secure the new rotor in place.

The Loctite needs at least 4 hours to dry before you can start the engine. This operation is not easy given the restricted access to the distributor on the 3B 20V Engine. You can remove the intake manifold to allow easier access to the distributor.

NOTE: Even though it is possible to pry off the anti-tamper plate from over the distributor hold down nut with the intake manifold installed, I recommend taking the extra time and remove the intake manifold to allow easy access to the ignition distributor.

With the intake manifold removed, you may want to replace the coolant pipe O-Rings, seal and Turbo coolant hose while you have the intake manifold removed. See section below for details. When you unbolt the intake manifold, you can leave the fuel lines attached to the intake fuel rail, and just use some heavy wire to tie up the intake manifold out of the way as shown in the Bentley repair manual.

A long (over 8 inch) 6mm allen wrench tool is usually required to remove the intake manifold bolts. (VAG1669 or equivalent). You can also use a long 1/4 inch drive extension, with a 6mm socket and a 6mm allen wrench socket shaft in combination to access these intake manifold bolts but this is a little tricky.

The intake manifold gasket should be replaced and the bolts should be torqued to 16 ft-lbs upon reassembly, start in the middle and work your way outward when torquing them down. Once you have the intake manifold tied up out of the way, you can cut off the anti tamper cover (a Dremel cutting wheel works here as well).

Before you loosen the distributor hold down nut, you should first set the engine to be at TDC with the flywheel O mark lined up, and the distributor rotor pointed at the line mark on the rim of the distributor. Once you get the engine rotated to the correct position, you can remove the hold down clamp and pull out the distributor. Removing the distributor gives you better access to the distributor so you can either crush the old rotor with some pliers, or cut the old rotor off "carefully" using a dremel cutting wheel.

As mentioned, you should remove all traces of the old rotor with some 200-300 grit sandpaper, and use some non-residue solvent (loctite primer solution is also recommended) to clean the distributor shaft before you apply some Loctite 640 to the inside area on the new distributor rotor. Insert the rotor over the distributor shaft with the key way lined up. Allow to dry for at least 4 hours before starting the engine.

The Bentley Repair manual also indicates that you should use the special tool #3233 to accurately line up the distributor rotor tip when setting the basic distributor position in relation to the flywheel O TDC mark, and the cam gear dot mark.

The Bentley also states that you should turn the distributor body counter-clockwise when you line up the rotor with the 3233 tool and then hold the distributor body with your hand while you tighten down the hold down nut. NOTE: The R1 in the distributor rotor part number refers to the fact that this rotor has a 1K ohm resistor between the center electrode and the outer tip electrode.

This rotor resistor can sometimes burn up after many years and cause a no start, and prevent the engine from running. You may also want to replace the valve cover gasket, the main breather hose, any vacuum hoses and other hard to reach coolant hoses and coolant temperature sensors while the intake manifold is moved out of the way.

evtl. teste ich auch mal einen finger vom g60, vielleicht läuft der ja noch besser. geht das bedenkenlos, weil das ja nur ein kleiner 4-zylinder ist?

gruss dUSTy